By: Dr. Mara Haseltine, Pure Dermatology
Thanks to updated research, and social popularity, skincare routines are constantly evolving. You’ve probably discovered a brand new favorite product each of the past few years. Just like our daily beauty regimens, the “best” skincare trends are rapidly changing. Some have been amazingly beneficial but others, not so much.
We’re giving you an inside scoop on what to look out for and what to flat out avoid this year when it comes to your skin. Afterall, love is in the air this month and one of the greatest expressions of self-love is Self Care!
Here are some cosmetic trends (+) to keep on your radar in 2023. Keep reading below for a few trends (-) to bid a not-so-fond farewell to.
Pharmaceutical Dermatology +
Pharmaceutical dermatology is a rapidly growing skincare trend that involves the use of advanced medical treatments and technologies to improve skin health and address various skin conditions. There is high consumer demand for services like anti-aging, skin cancer prevention, as well as hair growth, which are being provided through various forms of medication.

ALLURE magazine recently suggested that there will be a deluge of new prescription topicals, pills, and lasers emerging this year and we think they’re correct. They recently heralded the arrival of some exciting new neuromodulators and fillers as well as some less invasive, yet very powerful, treatments for skin conditions.
While COVID was at its height, a lot of the FDA’s energy and resources were dedicated to life-saving drugs, so understandably, there was a delay with approvals for other types of treatments. Important skin-focused innovations are now starting to get approved again.
There’s been great progress recently in treating many skin conditions using topicals and injectables, and there are expected to be more strides made as we continue into 2023. We had the first ever medication approved for vitiligo in 2022, as well as the first ever oral med approved for alopecia areata. Breakthrough treatments for our patients!
Personalized Skin Care +
Personalized skin care refers to a tailor-made regimen specifically designed to meet your skin’s unique needs. It takes into account an individual’s unique characteristics and skin type, rather than using a one-size-fits-all approach.
Your dermatologist will take factors like your age, environment, lifestyle, internal health factors like hormones and skin concerns into consideration before recommending a personalized skin care routine that will work best for you. Employing a customized approach, your skin is more likely to respond and improve more dramatically over time.

Sustainable Beauty Cosmetics +
Cosmetic materials add to global pollution through microplastics in packaging and chemicals like parabens, triclosan, and benzophenone. Synthetic materials in artificial cosmetics pollute ecosystems as it leaches into the air, water, and soil and can destroy ecosystems such as coral reefs.
Innovations in natural-based materials for packaging and cosmetic ingredients may help solve some of the environmental concerns of the cosmetics industry. Luckily, the cosmetics industry is now using more sustainable beauty cosmetic packaging which uses natural ingredients produced from renewable raw materials, and leaning away from petrol non-renewable sourcing.

Menopausal Skin is finally Getting Some Attention +
Menopause is not a word that has been uttered very often in the beauty industry, until 2022. Now it’s more than a whisper of beauty brands large and small. There are new brands launching that aim to normalize the discussion of menopause symptoms, like collagen loss and skin dehydration. We will finally be seeing more focus on and visibility for women over 40, and their beautiful skin, in 2023.
Classic brands are also launching whole lines dedicated to skincare concerns during and after menopause. Pure Dermatology also offers a full range of products and procedures targeted at rejuvenating aging skin as we jump into this beauty trend.
Now that we’ve discussed a few of the skincare trends that have earned a thumbs up, let’s review the cringe worthy fads that we hope are in the rear view.

Slugging with Vaseline -
If you’re on social media, chances are you’ve been bombarded with everything under the sun, as it relates to cosmetics and skincare. This would include a trendy technique called slugging. Expert opinions seem to be split down the middle on whether this fad is beneficial, and if so, to whom?
Some say the method itself can be beneficial, however, they discourage using completely occlusive products like Vaseline or Aquaphor. These formulas run the risk of trapping oils, sweat, and possibly bacteria in your pores. If that happens, it can lead to clogged pores and unpleasant breakouts.

DIY Medical Grade Skin Peels -
Sadly, some people have experienced severe burns, open wounds and melasma, which often takes months to heal, after performing medical grade at home skin peels.
We urge you to do your research before trying a chemical peel at home. There are some gentle, low concentration formulas that work on improving skin texture and tone gradually. They can be effective at targeting multiple skin problems, such as mild acne, fine lines and minor blemishes.
However, medical grade skin peels should be performed by a professional. Doctors suggest avoiding this beauty trend of at-home skin peels containing trichloroacetic acid, phenolic acid and retinols as these are deep peel agents and can cause more harm than good when not used properly by medical professionals.

At-Home Microneedling -
Simply put, there are just some things that should be left to the experts! When used exactly right, a cosmetic microneedling roller can be a good tool to help skin care penetrate deeper. However, there is an “avoidable” risk of causing damage and infection by using too much pressure, not using a quality device and not sanitizing properly.
The device is intended to stimulate collagen production by causing trauma to the skin, which can be beneficial for certain skin types when the procedure is performed by a professional. At-home microneedling can result in contact dermatitis, skin blotchiness and the spreading of infection!

Pore Vacuuming -
Yes, this skincare trend is as disturbing as it sounds. We concede that clogged pores are not pleasant or attractive, but using a pore vacuum at home in your bathroom is not the answer.
Using anything that involves suction can be very damaging to the skin, potentially causing broken capillaries, hyperpigmentation even micro-tears. This procedure should be done in the office, by your Dermatologist.
There are many gentle, noninvasive methods of exfoliation which can help to clear out dead skin on the surface as well as congestion inside the pores effectively, without irritating the skin. Try a Diamond Glow Facial to get the job done!

No More Overfilled Cheeks and Lips -
In recent years, doctors have seen a concerning rise in overfilled faces, especially the cheeks. Can we all agree to leave this disturbing cosmetic trend behind us?
This phenomenon is also referred to as “pillow face”, the term used to describe the odd, puffy appearance that results from an excessive amount of filler being injected into parts of the face. A layer-upon-layer accumulation of gel will eventually produce a visible level of distortion.
Of equal concern, the ongoing full lip trend comes with a risk of overfilling and damaging the lips. If plumped excessively, the lip tissue will expand and will require more and more filler each time, and the lips will become physically stretched. Always consult with a medical professional before using any type of injectable filler in any part of your face or body.

Who declared war on Buccal Fat? -
According to social media, buccal fat removal was once the new Brazilian butt lift of cosmetic trends. It is exactly what it sounds like, the removal of fat from the buccal fat pad, a mass of tissue located deep within the cheek.
Because the procedure removes volume from the face, buccal fat removal can have a prematurely aging effect on some patients. While it might look flattering at first, as the patient ages and naturally loses volume in their face, the lack of buccal fat may make them appear gaunt and older.
Although cosmetic fillers and fat injections might be used to replicate the look of buccal fat, once it’s gone, there’s no way to get it back. If you are contemplating buccal fat removal please consider the risks and understand how your results might change over time.
Need Expert Advice?
At Pure Dermatology, we are dedicated to providing our clients with the latest and right skincare solutions. Our team’s commitment to ongoing education and staying current with skincare trends allows us to offer personalized and innovative treatments that help our clients achieve their skin health goals.
With our expert injectors and board-certified dermatologists, Pure Dermatology’s philosophy is to maintain and promote the unique appearance of each patient without distorting their natural beauty.
Contact us today to schedule a consultation and develop your personalized skin care plan 2023!